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My passionate love affair with Scotland’s largest island

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On the surface, little appears to have changed in the 30 years that bestselling author Peter May has been visiting the Isle of Lewis. But tourism has had a big impact – from Sunday opening hours to a deep water port for cruise ships

There was a joke doing the rounds when I was first visiting the Outer Hebrides more than three decades ago. On the flight to Stornoway, halfway across the Minch, the pilot makes an announcement: “We will shortly be arriving on the Isle of Lewis. Don’t forget to turn your watches back two … hundred years.”

And there was, indeed, as you arrived on the islands for the first time, a sense of stepping back in time – to a place and a culture that had changed little in perhaps centuries.

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